Console Gaming

[iSlide]

Hi,

Problem:  about 80% of the days I try to use the wheel, it does not calibrate.  I can fake it into calibrating by spinning it myself, and drive it with no force feedback.  The other 20% of the days it works, it cuts in/out periodically (10-30 minute intervals of working/not working).

Logitech, you sent me an AC adapter, so I really think it is not the problem.  Ok so it outputs 24.5 volts.  Good.  Resistance between wall prongs is ~2 mega ohms.  Resistance between the two wheel-in connections is about the same, 2 mega ohms.  Are these good?  It appears to only want to draw .650 amps of current, although it is rated at 0.750.  Is that ok?

Second concern.  Through extensive googling I came across someone who claims 'interference' caused this problem for him.  Turning on/off certain things in his house (I think it was the furnace or something) would cut the FFB out or bring it back on.  What can you tell me about this?  I tried **bleep** near every plug in my place.  The ac converter is not three pronged so maybe something funny is going on... ground loop?

EVERYTHING works.  All the buttons/pedals work so I'd like to say the USB connection is all good, correct?  The wheel sensor makes the car turn.  The motor spins with a battery hooked up to it.  When it tries to calibrate, it is extremely weak....so weak that it can only shake the wheel a bit. 

Out of warranty and Logitech said you don't want it back.  So yes, I opened it up.  I'm worried its the circuit board, but since it works perfectly sometimes, i feel like something is loose somewhere, not completely fried.  I know you don't sell spare parts, and I know you can't advise me to open it up and repair.  I have two clear questions about power supply numbers and interference.  Please respond.