Mice and Pointing Devices

[SirRod]

I talked to Newark on the phone and they could not find the OMRON D2F-F-3-7,0130RAK.
This is the information taken directly off the micro switch its self.
They suggested I talk directly to the manufacture.
So I didn't get to the purchase point in the conversation.
Your calling it a D2F-01 may make a difference.
Is the part number I have wrong??? I gave them all the numbers hoping not to buy the wrong switch with a different voltage.I talked to other parts suppliers who had thousands of these switches but wouldn't sell me just a few.
One parts house I talked too told me to go buy a new mouse he also said for me to go to yard sales and browse the sale that I could buy another MM for pennies.
Searching for this part took most of the day yesterday. I was going to cannibalize my other MM but I don't want to if I can get parts.
Ya know having the numbers taken directly off the switch should have made this easy.
Knowing what to ask for makes a difference.
Thank you for the information.
Is there any where in the logitech literature a list of the parts?
I am great at fixing almost anything,I can understand but when you can't get the correct parts its a little more difficult.
Thanks again for your help.

[rlowens]

Logitech doesn't release part lists, so I'm not sure what switch is actually used in each model.

Here is Omron's page on the D2F family of switches, with a link for the PDF Data Sheet.

From the Data Sheet, these are the types of D2F "pin plunger" switches that would work:
D2F: 150g operating force, standard voltage/current (up to 3A @ 125VAC or 2A @ 30VDC)
D2F-F: 75g operating force, standard voltage/current (up to 1A @ 125VAC or 0.5A @ 30VDC)
D2F-01: 150g operating force, low voltage/current (up to 0.1A @ 30VDC)
D2F-01F: 75g operating force, low voltage/current (up to 0.1A @ 30VDC)

I'm pretty sure that nothing on the mouse is very high current or more that 5VDC, so the low-voltage/current models should work fine.

From your example, it looks like they actually used the D2F-F, but it does look like Newark doesn't carry that model (I just checked again). So, get the D2F-01F if you want the same soft buttons, or the D2F or D2F-01 if you want stiffer buttons (150 grams for force to click instead of 75 grams).

Or, you can check Omron's stock search for other places that sell the exact D2F-F if you want to be exact. Also, check your local electronics supply store, since they can probably just order it for you.

Tell me how it goes.

[SirRod]

All right Rich, got errr done with your help.
Be a few days shipping but we will see.
Thanks for helping me, before you intervened it was like pulling teeth.LOL
I ordered 4 of the D2F-01F....Big Smiles here.
Thanks a bunch. I'm still going to take up the warranty lady's offer for 20% off for a new MM...I'll let you know how the install goes should be a breeze.
Thanks a bunch.

[SirRod]

Hello Everyone:
Well I never had many things shipped as fast as these Micro switches.
Only took three days and not even full days. The parts were shipped the same days as I ordered. I'd say it maybe took total of 48hrs.
Not 5 minuets after I got the soldering tool hot I was finished with the first MM.
I don't do a lot of electronic repair but I do own an ancient soldering iron. Had it for maybe 30 years. Yes I'm old.
I used bottled air to desolder the terminals. Noting the position of the switch and then used a cloths pin to hold the switch to the left circuit board I soldered one terminal, then used the cloths pin to hold the circuit board in place and soldered the other two terminals. I made sure to heat the solder enough so there would not be a cold soldered connection on the terminals. Plugged it back in to make sure it worked and Voila its done. 4 micro switched and shipping were less than $10.00. My time Priceless.
Newark is a great supplier for this stuff. And Rich is great coach.
Thanks Logitech for providing a great support staff and web site.
Now to the other marble mouse.
FYI: The Cloths pin is wooden and I cut the pinching end to a point(45* both parts) years ago to use it for holding plastic model parts. Plastic cloths pins don't work because there not solid on the end, like the wooden ones.
Be sure to unplug the MM from the PC so as not to short it out and negate any repairability.

[Rexblade]

I have loved the trackman marble/wheel mouse design since it came out and have used it for at least the last 10 years. In the newer design it seems the plastic ridge that makes contact with the switch is a softer plastic and wears out quicker. I went through 2 of these in about a year and a half. BUT i figured out how to repair this problem without swapping out the switch or returning it to logitech (only to have it prematurely wear out again) and the repair I made is going on two years now! This does void the warranty im sure so if you don't think u can do it correctly I suggest you don't. If you can though your mouse will be better then new. 

1. First disassemble the mouse so that the top housing is off of the exposed bottom side with the switches exposed.

2. Seperate the button 1 area (the part you press with your finger) from the upper housing.

3. You should notice a ridge where the button makes contact with the switch. This ridge most likely has notch wore in it or is developing one where the button makes contact. This is why the button is starting to work intermittently. 

4. Take a normal office staple and straighten it out. Heat 1 end of the staple so u can press it into the plastic making a groove that is exactly the width of the staple.This should go exactly where the original "contact ridge" was 

5.  After youve got a ridge accross the complete contact area take your staple or a brand new one and bend it so it stradles the button perfectly and trim most of the excess from the sides that point down. 

6. The new metal contact surface should rest snuggly in its new slot but i also added a drop of super glue to ensure it wouldnt slip around on me. 

7. Reassemble the button housing. If you cant fit it easily through its original slot you might need to trim more length off the staple leg.

8. Put the mouse back together and if you did it how I did then your mouse should be better then new!  

Here is a picture of the new metal contact pad on the button sorry I dont have a before picture. 

[lyndabates]

I have a Trackman Marble, model T-BC21, that has been driving me crazy with erratic behavior.  I have searched this Board several times,  but wasn't sure exactly what subject fit my problems.  I cleaned the trackball area several times.  I tried installing the latest software -- that made things worse -- so I uninstalled and reinstalled the original software.  Still had issues.  So back I came.  I found this Topic and began reading.  It seemed to address one of my Major Problems --

undependable left click action.  I certainly did not want to go buy soddering irons and parts to fix a cheap relatively new

trackball.  So, I thought that if the button contacts caused major problems, maybe gunk hiding under and around the buttons might be a source of some of my problems.   I cleaned the crevices at the button junctions using alcohol with a cotton swap and ulta-thin metal tool wrapped in a thin layer of cotton.  Sure enough, there was gunk and once removed the button started to operate more appropriately.  Now if I can just get the scrolling corrected . . .