01-25-2012 06:42 AM - edited 01-25-2012 06:44 AM
Just contact logitech support and they will replace it, These wheels have 2 YEARS manufacturers warantee.
You have to give them some numbers and stuff and hopefully you can geta new one.
My first was replaced within 2 weeks, the replacement was replaced after 1 year.
02-03-2012 11:18 AM - edited 02-04-2012 03:08 AM
Well, we have another success!!
I just registered to tell you my experience, so other people can fix that **bleep** alignment problem, like I did with this thread.
I purchased it two days ago from eBay. It was new but refurbished since one person returned it to the shop (the price for me was 180 €, I'm in Spain). So I started playing LFS and rFactor and noticed that after a few minutes of play, the wheel was losing its alignment so I had to turn left to mantain the in-game car straight.
Then I look into this forum and followed the steps by rodavo and more specially Arthur-Dent in THIS POST.
So this morning I bought some "SuperGlue" (fast contact-glue). That was risky, as that kind of glue may damage some plastic material. Then I reached the famous optical encoder wheel (too little, it seemed bigger in the photos), I put some glue in a tooth stick, but I finally aplied it directly from the tube, just a single drop and covered almost half of the steel shaft. I also read that some people pushed a bit the optical sensor, so I did it too, about one or two milimeteres. Don't ask what of the two things solved the problem, it just works perfect now!
Well, the entire operation took one hour and a half and I tested it for about 3 hours with PERFECT results.
I expect to more people can solve this "unnecesary" problem.
Thanks a lot for sharing your research!!
EDIT: First of all, I re-centered the wheel by unplugging and plugging it back to my PC, so Windows can execute the first calibration.
02-17-2012 02:42 PM
I created this account just so i can thank Rodavo for this ingenious fix. so thank you rodavo, you saved me quite a fortune which i really appreciate for now. you see im a huge drift simmer & i do it for fun. so a buddy sold me his g27 which he dont really use much. had it for like a year and i just started using it about 3 to 4 months problems started creepin up.
first it was the gas potentiometer ( it was flickerin) then some minor stuff n now the optic wheel. so i kinda did everything i could to keep it functioning but in the end it was gettin stupid. -$250 + (my Ps3 just YLOD'd) -$400
When all hope was lost. i surfed d net , came across this forum today & decided to try this fix right away. Just so u know i have no background on socket board's or opening up & put things back together successfully. yesterday was my first attempt to fix my g27, i did not record or take photos of the process. i took my time doing this while watching Archer on Fox lol anyway
took me about 1 hour and im surprised that its really not rocket science with this http://www.jlvrh.de/G27_UK.htm . again thank u Rodavo saved a life mate.
Its been a few days since i tried the glue fix and my personal feedbacks . I ran a few laps on LFS and found that my 900* lock was restored but to me i think slightly more responsive which is good but i didnt want to fight the wheel to much..
The Centering problem was No longer there. tested it for about 30 minutes and it felt great. Wheel Calibration i would say about 98-99% accurate (acceptable for me. its like a tiny dead zone or sumthin).
However i use my wheel mostly for drifting & i tried it out for about 20 minutes with medium feedback settings & full left - right lock. Degree Rotation seems to be equal, feels like there are bumpstops preventing the wheel to hit more than maximum lock which is also good, accuracy is yet for me to find out . Everything works great but the only downside is that the green LED power indicator on the gearbox dont light up when its on and plugged in. Other than that im really glad that its working again. for those of you who expirience similar difficulties, spare some time & effort and hopefully this will help u as much as it has helped me. Thanks again cheers!!
02-23-2012 03:39 AM
I purchased mine in November, 2011 and have not had any problems whatsoever. Can we get some confirmation from a Logitech support person whether or not this has been fixed on G27's manufacturered more recently?
Also, I noticed that many of you mentioned that you paid $300 for the G27. You guys really should look into Amazon.com. I got mine for $235. No taxes and free shipping as well. If you live outside the USA that might not be an option, but if not...
02-27-2012 08:13 AM - edited 02-27-2012 09:40 AM
I have a Logitech Momo with the same problem(s) related here ("slipping" on fast movements then losing center) thus rendering the wheel useless.
I was glad I found this thread and read it start to end. However, none of the "fixes" seem to work with the Momo...
1) the optical weel is screwed and fitted into the shaft. I even had the glue ready, but in the Momo's case it doesn't seem to be any sliding whatsoever of the black optical wheel (that is much bigger than the G27's it seems).
2) The sensor is unmovable. So one can't move it slightly closer to the black wheel.
Now... the surface of the black (optical?) wheel is greased/oily... I don't know if that's normal but I went for the cleaning with LCD cleaning foam. Same for the sensor. I didn't check results yet but well... I don't have many hopes.
Other than that, all screws seem nice and tight so I don't know what else could be causing the problem...
edit: so it seems that I was actually looking at the wrong things. I was looking for the wheel's shaft itself, not the motor's one.
I found the correct things; they look slightly different in the Momo but are similar enough. However, I did both the "fixes" (glue and move sensor) and still have the problem. And a lot, to the point the wheel is unusable as it will lose center on any turning motion (except for playing Nascar, where turns are super smooth).
I'll try now to disassemble it again and disassemble the shaft from the black disc as well, in order to clean it and then glue it better. Fingers crossed.
edit2: the initial auto calibration is not working at all however. Once I plug the USB, the wheel jerks left and right then ends every time all the way to the left (it worked 100% fine before). If I then turn it all the way to the right it finds its center perfectly.
02-27-2012 11:11 AM
So indeed the black cog (in the Momo), which connected to the optical wheel, is indeed loose over the metal shaft. If one holds the cog on one side and the cog on the other side of the motor (the one connected to the wheel shaft) the two just turn almost indepently from each other.
I took them out, cleaned them, then applied glue. Let the glue dry and went for the test.
Unfortunately, it's 100% as before. No change at all.
(I did fix the "initial calibration" thing though, it was my mistake when assembling it before).
This whole deal is quite a heads up never to buy anything from Logitech anymore. It's impressive how everyone posts here on their forums but themselves - apparently the least interested in helping their buyers.
Thanks for those who took the time to post the fixes etc. I might as well try another day with another glue, but for now I'll just leave like this and unfortunately not play any sim games as the wheel is unusable.
03-20-2012 09:56 PM - last edited on 03-21-2012 05:35 AM by Taylarie
Aside from all of that, why hasn't Logitech fixed this problem if it's well known? If not for this problem I can see it out lasting my WingMan Formula GP (12 years and counting) and it's a very nice wheel.
03-21-2012 07:35 AM
Oh, so I can't offer to fix them for others not even for free but yet Logitech won't fix them? So exactly what is being done about this problem? Asking this here and saying this here doesn't do a lot of good seeing as "This is a User to User Forum." but I'm going to do it anyways. What say you replace a defective wheel, who's to say it doesn't have the same problem or will at some point have that problem? What's the point in replacing them if they are going to do the same thing? Why waste money shipping a wheel back and forth? What you should do is figure out how to I.D. the defective wheels and have them recalled. I woke up wanting to race but I couldn't because I had to send my wheel back and get another one that has yet to get here. I don't like down time and I don't like having to fix new items. Has Logitech forgotten the basic rules of sales? Here allow me to remind you guys. 1: without the consumer, you have no business. 2: There has to be a demand for your product for it to sell, something about it that stands out from all the others as to where people want to buy yours when given the choice and no amount of advertising can substitute quality. 3: If your product is rumored to be flawed, you just as well advertise for your competitors and if your customer service or company had been said to be of poor quality, you will lose the interest of the people that were looking to buy your product. If this was my company, I'd get rid of all the losers that don't understand how to make money by offering quality and hire people more suitable for the job and I'd be making a whole lot more money all around because I understand what the people want and I know how to offer it to them. However, it's not my company and I don't have to deal with you people if I don't want to. I'm only fixing the wheel I've ordered because I already ordered it and don't feel like shipping it back, that said, you guys had better step up the quality and you'd better make sure it's worth every cent you ask for it. You guys wrapped plastic in leather and I can feel the wholes where the screws are holding the plastic together on the back of the wheel, you could have at least put caps in the holes so the wheel feels smooth... It feels like you wrapped my WingMan in leather lol. The steel is a nice touch but it doesn't seem to be stainless and you could offer replacement wheels seeing as the wheel itself can be removed and that would boost sells. The center could've been made to be a horn button and you could make the emblem changeable seeing as the Logitech emblem in on the shifter also and speaking of the shifter, what's with that cheap plastic cap on the knob,was it really that hard to make it stainless steel? You could even keep the plastic wrapped knob and wheel, just change the plastic cap on the shifter to stainless steel and put caps in the screw holes before you wrap the wheel in leather.
03-31-2012 03:37 PM
I've read all the comments here regarding returning items under the manufacturers warranty. So I have a question, probably blindingly obvious, but i just want someone to confirm it with me:
If i do not purchase the g27 from Logitech direct, but buy it new from somewhere else (such as amazon), do i still get the warranty? If so, am i right in assuming that if i buy the wheel in used condition from ebay, it is not covered by logitech's warranty?