PC Gaming

[JYLP]

I think so but it depends on when the wheel was sold seeing as they go by the code under the wheel. I just got a new one and so far it hasn't missed a beat. However, based on logic and my current knowledge, I think it's going to start messing up soon. I say this because if Logitech hasn't done anything to fix this problem and they are all made the same, they will all have the same problems at some point, some sooner than others. If you do as you've always done, you will get the results you've always gotten. So if I were you I wouldn't bother with sending it back to them, I'd just fix it myself unless you want a new wheel and don't mind paying shipping and waiting. I'm waiting to see if this new one craps out before I bother fixing it. I started to take it apart and fix it as soon as I took it out the box but I wanted to see if Logitech did anything to fix the problem and if so I'd be the first to post saying that they did or I'd confirm that they did nothing about it after all this time.

[Ringostarr]

Had this problem but turns out I am still withen the warrenty. For everyone who did send their wheel back, did you have to include the pedals? Mine are hardmounted and I really don't have the tools to unmount them so this would be a pill if I do have to return the fully functional pedals -__-

[Drift-King]

Just came across this problem on my 1-month old wheel ffs!

1.) The problem occurs within an hour of gaming (when wheel heats up)

2.) Jolting the wheel to the right seems to bring it back to center, and vice versa.

3.) All indications of a slipping optical disk after reading the WHOLE thread.

Logitech's reply: They are asking me to send it back for replacement. This could take upto a month turnover time and given that I had to wait two months for the original delivery from my e-tailer (1 month for them to get it in stock and 1 month for shipping travel) this would make 3 months of no gaming since the day I purchased it online. Needless to say I'm not amused.

I think I may attempt the Glue/Sensor Squeeze method, just like fixing an old ball-mouse

UPDATE: THE FIX WORKS!

Thanks to RODAVO for the solution! The optical wheel was badly cracked which resulted in slippage. I have now strengthened the wheel by applying a coat of "Plastic Welder" glue on the front and back of the disk (careful not to cover any slits) and once that hardened I reinstalled the wheel. This will prevent any further cracks and also keep the motor shaft and the disc secured together (I dabbed a bit on top once the disk was back on). I also tightened the little screws which hold the optical board on the motor with some Locktite for good measure I dont want any vibes loosening them.

It now remains to be seen how long the fix will last for, but given the amount of precautions taken, I'd say forever

[Drift-King]

Off-topic

Im no stranger to such repairs. In the past, I've also repaired my old G25 when the wheel's main bearing seal fell into the the range limiter gearing and almost destroyed the wheels ability to stop at either end of the 900 degrees range while it was busy being chewed up. I also saw lots of hairline cracks on the main bell-housing which holds the shaft of the wheel, motor gears, big ball bearings etc and found loose bits of broken plastic floating around the case.. Frankly I don't know how it managed to keep everything held tightly in there still lol. Hey,try picturing me shaking a G25 with loose screws rattling inside and saying "Logitech means Quality" in a cheesey 5 second advert LOL.

Lets face it, large scale manufacture has such pitfalls especially when building things such as this toy which has moving parts. Tolerances change over time, cheap plastic fabrication doesnt always stand up to the desired test of time-stress and these toys wont undergo the same type of quality control that say a microprocessor would undergo. All in all its a solid wheel, posibly the best they've ever made to date, but it still is a plastic toy at the end of the day. Products are no longer over-engineered to ensure longevity and unanticipated conditions of use. Having said that, I always treat my gadgets like they are solid gold. Meh.... 

[TheAnimaster]

My G25's encoder wheel (that's what it's really called, guys) is busted. It has a crack all the way from the center to one side, and yes this makes a pretty significant gap for the IR sensors to make a misread, along with allowing the encoder wheelto spin freely. 

But this one crack is the least of my worries. There are actually TWO MORE!! At first I thought they were just 'scratches' or part of the design as they are coincidentally almost the same distance away from each other (all three cracks form a big 'Y' on the disc) -- but then I noticed that these hairline cracks were 'bleeding'. They were bleeding LUBRICANT. 

Then it struck me, and this is almost unthinkable -- could Logitech (accidentally) be using a lubricant that corrodes the plastic encoder?? Surely this little piece of plastic wasn't 'engineered' to self-destruct... I mean, why would any company do such a thing?

It's a well known fact (or is it?) that 'normal' oil CORRODES certain plastics (particularly the hard type used in these sort of parts) -- I know so because I used to use 'Singer' oil on my Tamiya cars when I was a kid -- and the gears (and other plastics) always cracked... quickly. 

With this in mind, I set out to find a replacement. I've been in touch with a shop that might be able to machine the part from more durable material. When we've successfully created a part that works, I'll let you guys know. 

What happened to that guy who said he was able to make plastic replacements though? 

[Drift-King]

AniMaster  -> I found a similar substance on the shaft of the motor, where the encoder wheel is placed. At first I thought it was lubricant that dripped from the motor but on closer inspection it does appear to be some kind of sticky resin, possibly for fastening the encoder wheel to the shaft to avoid any slippage. The resin DID NOT exist anywhere else apart from the inside of the encoder wheel.

This substance, would quickly become very runny once the motor starts to heat up, making it useless pretty much. My wheel had 3 similar cracks, but only one went as far as the edge of the encoder wheel. I dont think that the resin has damaged the plastic, because it appears that the wheel is pressed onto the motor shaft and this puts lots of stress on the little plastic wheel.

Now imagine how tight that is, add the extra strain for when the motor shaft heats up and expands, and finally add the shock that it's subjected to from the force feedback effects. It eventually develops cracks and breaks. These wheels are not usually designed to be subjected to heat or extreme forces. Perhaps a poor choice for Logitech, or maybe an inferior plastic was used. In all, something here was not up to proper specs, causing the problems mentioned.

A new plastic replacement would probably suffer a similar fate. Perhaps if it was slightly looser on the shaft (to relieve the stesses), and we secured it with an epoxy/screw/clip etc to avoid slippage? Just a thought.

[TheAnimaster]

@Drift-King, I just had a replacement machined at CM laser services -- IT WORKS GREAT!! It's made of brass... I'm amazed at how they got the thing so friggin' precise. But yeah... I'm afraid the replacement will last longer than the wheel itself now, what with Logitech using PLASTIC for the wheel itself (the metal and leather are all for good looks...) If anyone needs an out-of-warranty replacement, look them up. 

[JYLP]

That is the actual name of the place? Where are they located and what did that need you to do for them to make the part (did you need to send in the wheel or just the part?)?

[TheAnimaster]

Not sure if I'm allowed to post URLs but Google brings up their web page ; ) 

They're located in the north of Thailand (Chiang Mai -- abbreviated CM). I found them when I was trying to locate businesses/places that are into making these sorts of parts. They're reliable, I can't stress that enough. 

You don't need to send them anything as they already have the schematics and have a working prototype. They're now simplifying/making the process more efficient as from what I understand, it's a two step process where they first mill the shape with a cnc machine and then cut out the encoder part with laser.  The result is something that is MUCH nicer than the original (but that's also because it's brass) but more importantly -- more durable! 

[Drift-King]

Brass encoder sounds like a sturdy replacement! Even though my encoder is fixed with plastic epoxies, I will still order a solid replacement in brass to keep as a backup! How did you fasten it to the motor shaft?