10-18-2010 04:04 AM - edited 10-18-2010 04:06 AM
Ive joined the club of bad G27's, received mine through dabs Friday played for two days and now Monday, it can totaly lose centering ( no left lock) after a couple of rough races in Grid.
Even after turning the wheel on and it self centers, I can sharply turn the wheel anticlockwise a few times and easily lose centering even with no force or centering in effect. It does seem like a loose sensor wheel.
Dabs have accepted to rma it, I just hope the new one doesnt have the same problem.
My g25 failed after about 2 years and I took it apart to see inside , its not too hard to get into, so if I get another bad G27 Ill strip it and fix it myself.
The 2 days with the G27 I could tell it is a great wheel, really precise, better than the G25, and I hope to get back online with a good one soon.
10-23-2010 03:21 PM - edited 10-23-2010 03:56 PM
To anyone who is thinking of trying Rodavo's method of glueing the shaft and rotor wheel i can confirm that it fixed the problem with my 4 months old wheel and took no more than 30 mins to do.
If you follow the link ..
I found you dont need to completly strip the wheel down, just go so far as to unscrew the second circuit board (4 screws) and unplug the connectors from the right hand side (looking down from above) and flip the circuit board out of the way so you can reach and pop off the plastic end cap that covers the rotor and optical sensor circuit. Then you can tighten ( if needed) the circuit board screws and apply adhesive to the middle of the rotor and metal shaft.
I did make sure i had centralised my wheel before stripping it so everything goes back in alignment.
My many thanks to Rodavo for discovering the answer to the alligment problem, i hope my message helps anyone who feels its to daunting to think of stripping their wheel down.Just take it one step at a time and its easy.. dont go pulling the connectors off the boards to vigourously though, just ease them off gently fromside to side.
10-24-2010 10:06 PM - edited 10-24-2010 10:38 PM
I too can also confirm this fix... Logitech rma was like 5 weeks due to stock issues.. no way man.... Follow the picture links and use a good plastic to metal epoxy... I even roughned the shaft with an emery board before epoxy... CAREFUL not to get optic wheel dirty, and let epoxy dry very well... Total time to take apart and fix about an hour... let glue dry and race on.. THANK _ YOU RODAVO note i also tightened the LOOSE screws... out of 3, 2 were real loose... I applied a dab of nail polish to screwheads to stop them from loosening..
And as a note.... the wheel does not feel real loose, but the motor spins rapidly and stops very quick, this was allowing the plastic force fit wheel to slightly rotate... test it yourself,,, grasp optic wheel, and turn steering wheel you will feel it slip.... after epoxy I have run for 2 days no issues... SO glad to have ny wheeel back in order... no thanks to the horrible engineering and service at Logitech... great job Logitech.
..as a plus my MOMO had probably 2 million miles on it when I passed it down to my son in like new condition!
10-25-2010 10:00 AM
I believe the G25 and G27's need a rubber cushion for a bump stop to help dampen the abrupt stop during calibration, it seems as if the hard stop is what is causing the screws to loosen themselves and cause the problems that everyone is experiencing......either that or just implement a limit switch at both ends...... I just repaired my G25 with the same problem as the 27's were having, thanks for the pic tutorial
10-25-2010 03:22 PM
GTR_G25.........i considered putting some rubber on the end stops when i pulled mine apart, but I think the problem would be that you need to have the hard stops so that the calibration from left to right is an exactly the same everytime. If there was rubber I imagine that you might have problems with the wheel not turning the same amount of turns left as it does right depending on how much the rubber compresses and this would cause your wheel to not be centred after calibration. Just a thought....
10-26-2010 06:56 AM
I do not believe it is "bump stop " related so much... These wheels with force feedback change rotational directions VERY fast... As the motor heats up from "normal" use... the shaft carries that heat out to the optical wheel.. This wheel is nothing more than press fit on the end of a polished metal shaft... no key way is the real issue... IF there was a say 3/4 shaft with the wheel pressed on I believe it would withstand the forces... I also think there are some other issues which contribute to this issue... Drive down a straightaway, and let loose the steering wheel.. it will start bouncing back left to right... tank slapping in the bike world... this is like the bouncing as wheel calibrates... the little plastic wheel just cannot hold onto the slippery metal shaft... the real gix is either a keyway or a non round shaft... In my opinion, this is a recall issue, and if you fix your own you still should get warranty coverage.. look I saved Logitech time and money at my own expense... If they do re-engineer the parts in question, people whom fixed their own should get the improved parts sent to them... thats what companies do for loyal customers isn't it? Even if the sent me a whole new motor and optic sensor it still is WAY better for them than RMA crap....
As a side note.... just how many hours did the crew in quality control actually drive these wheels... ? It seems as if this problem creeps up really quickly... And i'm guessing all wheels are subject to it... untill re-engineered, this fix will get you back up and running, but what about production lines Logitech? I certainly hope they have stopped production till a fix is implemented... This is a great wheel, someone just goofed in engineering and quality control..
10-30-2010 04:33 AM
I would like to offer another confirmed fix for Rodavo's method for fixing thecalibration problem. Perhaps a new thread should be posted including the link for the stripown of the G27 pics and brief explanation of how to do it. I think there are still many broken G27 wheels out there that could be fixed with this simple method.
Congratulations to Rodavo,forums need people like him to start the ball rolling.
11-16-2010 08:32 AM
Same issue here. I wanted to know, when taking apart the wheel, how in earth do you get the center cap off the wheel (the first procedure according to this link http://www.jlvrh.de/G27_UK.htm). Im guessing that I need to remove the 6 screws that are in a hexagonal shape, right ?