12-21-2009 08:25 AM
hamishi - thank you so much for going to the trouble og making this posting. - My rear speaker is back up and running!
I had the same problem and no idea where to begin, but I can use a soldering iron and identify a capacitor.
I followed you instructions but I couldn't see any sign of discolouration or damage so I replaced both of the adjacent capacitors in the region you described with 100uF 16v and my little blue light is back!
12-21-2009 08:30 AM
JoeyDeacon - If you can't identify the capacitor(s) yourself perhaps you know someone who can have a look for you - following hamisihi's advice got mine back up and running although I could see no visible sign of a problem - I replaced both 10v 100uF capacitors with 16v 100uf ones and whilst I was there i redid any solder points that looked at all dodgy in case there was a dry joint.
My thinking was 'Why not try I can't make the situation worse' and it payed off.
Best of luck
12-26-2009 03:34 AM
hamishi and cptcapricorn, I too have got it fixed many thanks for your help. A friend of mine used to design PCB's and replaced both 10v 100uF capacitors like for like and it did the trick. Neither capacitor looked damaged in any way.
There are now 3 of us that have fixed it with the same method.
A pity logitech offer no assistance to this issue.
If anyone could like to get their wireless spaker fixed by the same person who fixed mine then please PM me on here, if that's ok by the mods. I'm in UK, as long as postage is covered both ways we can fix it for a small labour fee. This issue infuriated me like it has so many others.
It saves having to bin the whole system.
12-29-2009 02:24 AM
thank you so hamishi this issue has been prolonging me for almost a year ago. Searching the web i found that it was a very common issue with the rear speaker and since the model was discontinued and logitech no longer had part for it at that point. Me and my Dad opened up the speaker we had a tough time getting the silver part open xD we didn't know you could warm the silver part up with a hair dryer and remove it with ease till now. Back than we didn't see anything wrong with it from the inside so we assume the radio or wifi transmission was done for. Can't believe a post like this come back after a year and close to christmas none the less. Thank you hamishi =)
12-31-2009 03:27 AM
Hamishi, Great post, very informative.
I seem to have exactly the same problem as you and others on this forum. I have followed your comprehensive advice on opening the speaker which has been successful, however on inspection of the the speaker internals I can't seem to identify a defective capacitor, or even a probable one. It's pretty cramped in there and even if I did have an idea on which on to change, I don't think I could even access one of the likely capacitors. Maybe I am looking in the wrong area. There appears to be two PCBs, one on the bottom of the unit, which I presume is the power supply area and then another PCB attached to the back of the speaker, which I presume handles the wireless side of things. Is this correct? I am certainly not an expert in this area.
I was wondering if you or anyone else would be kind enough to send/attach a photo or a more detailed description of the actual capacitor that was changed, as I'm at a bit of a loss. Also, did you dismantle the unit further to gain better access to the capacitor? I don't want to proceed any further without advice just in case I cause more damage.
Thanks in advance for any replies, Nick.
01-01-2010 04:28 AM
We followed Hamishi's advice, and with my Father-in-law and wife we took a guess on the likely capacitors and soldered in new like-for-like (i.e. 100uF, 10v). And the blue light returned with success! For info, the capacitors were 12p each from Maplin's - bargain.
Just to confirm, I've attached a picture (see below) of the two we changed just to avoid confusion for anyone else - the screwdriver tip points to the two adjacent capacitors. As Hamishi said, in the cabinet these are situated on the bottom PCB, on the rear left. As you will see, we have dismantled the PCB from the bottom of the speaker cabinet to gain better access for soldering. In order to do this, you'll need to unscrew the other PCB from the back face of the cabinet and also remove the glue holding the exterior power supply cable into the back of the unit. We just scraped away using a flat-blade screwdriver. Also, after this you'll then need to pop out the cable holder from the back of the unit, again using a flat-blade screwdriver, to fully release the assembly.
Thanks again Hamishi and to everyone else who has contributed with helpful advice. Hamishi, Logitech should be paying you a cut of their profits...seriously!!
Thanks again, Nick.
01-01-2010 01:45 PM - edited 01-01-2010 03:36 PM
I'm another UK customer who has just discovered both their wireless rears no longer connect and flash red. Trying to re-connect via the pinhole method was unsuccessful. Thanks so much for the info so far. Saves me forking out a couple of hundred for a new system. It looks a bit like a project to repair these. I'll pop down to Maplins when I have a moment to pick up the replacement capacitors.
Disassembling the unit also looks a pain. If anyone has a method for removing the lower circuit board without removing the top one I'd like to be informed. Thanks again for everyone's help.
EDIT: I managed to get the lower circuit board loose by wriggling it around but it looks like you really need to get both circuit boards out to give yourself some room to work. At the moment I'm having trouble loosening the incoming power cable coming into the unit. Once you remove all the glue from around the cable holder, what do you do then? Thanks.
01-01-2010 03:50 PM
after messing around a bit more i found out that a little cleaning and resoldering and the old capictator worked. But i've come into another issue my control pod is only detecting the left rear and i get continous slow green for the right. So i don't know if replacing the capicator back to the new one would help. Since both the speaker can connect and recieve sound but only the left one is ever connected
01-02-2010 04:13 AM
Hi YP, in response to loosening the incoming power cable after removing the glue, this is a little fiddly as you have gathered. Basically, remove the cable holder from the back of the unit by inserting a flat-blade screwdriver into the 'clip' part and push it into the centre of itself to make it smaller, combined with squeezing it out from the exterior side of the back of the speaker cabinet. You'll have to repeat this a few times but persist as it will eventually pop out from the back. You will damage it slightly by doing this, but the damage will only be cosmetic and it will re-assemble again afterwards, and as it's at the back of the unit it won't spoil the look of the speaker.
Hope this helps,