Speakers

[mistax]

got the light to return but having issue connecting it to the right rear now. Both speaker willl only connect to the left rear.

[mistax]

anyone having issue reconnecting the rears after being able to fix the flashing light problem?

[mistax]

i guess this hotfix didnt work for me

[NightLight]

Happy new year all!

I too found bad caps  in both my rear speakers and was not surprised when I noticed what brand they were.

CapXon... <<< are the worst caps on the planet, I wish I had a penny for every one I've replaced on lots

of equipment.

I also replaced the  1000uF 35V cap next to the silver "U" shaped heatsink on the photo shown earlier in both speakers as they were bulging too.

Logitech have used these caps on the rf board too..I hope they last!!

If you have the skill, time and inclination replace them all with reputable brands.

Night...

[Alain2]

Guys,

Thanks for posting all these details, I have the same problem on both my rear speakers, and I will try to apply the repair method suggested. I just have a short question: is it better to replace the 10V 100uF capacitors like-for-like or is 16V 100uF a better option ? I don't know much about electronics, just wandered if 16V was like increasing the working range of the component (ie would be like overdesign compared to the original 10V, but that one we now know fails quite easily after a few months/years) or if it could affect performance in sound restitution ?

Thanks,

Alain2

[Sparticus]

Thank you so much for the info in this forum.  I had a rear speaker go out and I first had trouble getting the rear right speaker open and the instructions found earlier in the thread helped me through that obstacle.  After checking the commonly faulty capacitors, I determined they were not the issue, but instead that the transformer on the power supply wafer was loose and had broken the connection with the PCB board.

I had to creatively splice some wire to the board to be able to more easily solder the connections back, as well as use some double-sided adhesive to ensure the transformer wouldn't pop loose again.  My dog would regularly knock the speaker off my table by snagging her feet on the power cord and I'm sure this is what knocked the transformer loose.

Once the transformer was soldered and put back in its place, the blue LED shone once more.  Thanks for all the great help found in this thread, I hope to help others troubleshoot their rear z-5450 speakers.  Cheers!

[almalino]

I confirm that solution presented in this thread worked for me!!! Thank you very much. I was about to waste rear speakers and already put them into the garbage bin

I replaced 4 capacitors, 2 in each speaker. although I put 100mF 35v instead of 10v since 35v were the only ones I found and , I was told the more volts the better / They are slightly bigger though.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH! You just saved me a bunch of Euros

[Rudly]

# Hi ,
#
# This is about only flashing red problem!!!
# You must remove the protective grid. Pull the rubber pegs. Unscrew 4 screws.
# With a knife to go under the silver plastic and pruned around. There's a
# lot of glue. Pull out your hair dryer or heat gun and heat up the sliver
# colored strip around the speaker assembly.
# This will melt the glue and the speaker assembly will come off relative easy
# when you grab at the silver strip.
# Inside you will see at the bottom a power supply and fixed to the back the
# wireless unit.
# I am not electrical engineer, but I fixed it! You need to buy two capacitors
# 100uF 10V or 100uF 16V, the solder and take care of polarization. That is all.
# I hope I helped you and you as happy as I am.
#

go to my gallery for photos,

[Rudly]

HAMISHI IS THE KING OF FLASHING RED PROBLEM:

thank you man!

[SuperHerman]

Hi, I have a similar problem with my rear Z-5450s, one was blinking red --> replacing caps fixed it, the other one's power supply was working good (clean 25V + .3.V). The LED is dim red and blue at the same time ( barely visible). I have no idea how the bluetooth receiver works but looking at the PCB-traces the LED seems to be controlled by it. So i wanted to know if the amplifier itself was still working. By looking at the datasheet (TDA8922B - 2 x 50 W class-D power amplifier) i could measure at pin 6 (Mode) that it was not switched on. Applying +5V to pin 6 brought the amplifier back to life and i could test it with some music py soldering a chinch connerctor to the input pins of the chip. Since the amp works the fault t has to be at the bluetooth receiver/controller therefore the speaker is most likely gone for good but i would appreciate any suggestion on how to find or solve the problem. Greetings